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The center of this trip is a trek around three lofty peaks that locals consider to be the abode of three Boddhisattvas associated with early Mahayana Buddhism. Topped off by rugged, tale-laden Khampa towns, cultural monuments, and the transition from the Tibetan highlands to the Tibeto-Burman fringe.
 Meeting in Kunming (Yunnan) we fly to Gyalthang (3,344 m), southern-most Tibetan town and historical caravan port. We spend a few days exploring the town and its surroundings while allowing our bodies to acclimatise to the altitude. Sights include the chalet-style adobe houses of Dokhar Dzong (old town), 17th-century Sumtsenling Monastery built by the 5th Dalai Lama, and the revered Gyalwa Ringa temple in the countryside.
Land cruising northwards over the Gongnag-la and the Jarong-la, two mountain passes, and the forested hills of the Baimang Nature Reserve, we reach Chatreng, a former dependency of the principality of Lithang. The main site in this largely agricultural and staunchly Gelug area is the fortress-like Sampheling Monastery. Several times besieged, destroyed, and rebuilt in the last 100 years, it has recently been completely moved and splendidly restored on the outskirts of town.
The trailhead to Mt. Risum Gonpo lies near Dobpa, a few hours' drive from Chatreng. In the old days, the Risum Gonpo region, known as Gangkarling, was a sanctuary for robbers who withdrew here after their looting and pillaging ventures in the lower valleys. Today, Gangkarling is an impressive nature park. A Kora around Joseph Rock's "holy mountains of the outlaws" is a safe and rewarding undertaking.
 Starting point of our trek is the "bandit monastery" Chonggu Gonpa. From here we follow the old pilgrim's trail trekking across green pastures where nomads graze their yaks. We camp on the shores of crystal-clear alpine lakes. During the entire Kora, we are in the presence of "the holy trinity": Mt. Jampelyang (5,958 m), Mt. Chenrezig (6,032 m), and Mt. Chana Dorje (5,958 m). Named after three Bodhisattvas, the mountains are collectively referred to as Risum Gonpo or "three-mountains protector". The length of the Kora can be customized according to your needs.
We head back to Gyalthang and on to Jang Sadam (Lijiang), the centre of Naxi culture with its charming old town, the labyrinthine waterways, narrow cobbled streets, and old-world market. It is also possible to exit the Tibetan highlands directly from Gyalthang by air to Kunming. |
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