In the old days, the districts of Bathang, Lithang and Gyalthang in southern Kham were collectively known as Baligyalsum or "federation of three brothers". Each with distinct histories and attributes, they were key players in the thriving trade along the Himalayan belt.
This trip focuses on age-old bonds, historic sites, nomad culture and contemporary urban life - in the backdrop of majestic mountains, highland pastures, green valleys and the steepest of gorges. Mostly entailing overland travel, variations and add-ons such as horse rides and day-hikes are possible.
 Meeting in Kunming (Yunnan) we fly to Gyalthang (3,344 m), southern-most Tibetan town and first stop on the journey. We explore this historic caravan port and its surroundings while allowing our bodies to acclimatise to the altitude. Sights include the chalet-style adobe houses of Dokhar Dzong (old town), 17th-century Sumtsenling Monastery built by the 5th Dalai Lama, and the revered Gyalwa Ringa temple in the countryside.
Further attractions are Lake Napa Nature Reserve, and the alpine pasture of Shudugang. The highlight of the summer is the Gyalthang Horse-racing Festival. It is annually held during the 5th month of the Tibetan lunar calendar (May/June), and attracts visitors from near and far.
 Land cruising northwards through the farming villages of Gyetsa and Ngosho, we cross over the Gongnag-la and the Jarong-la, two passes covered with rhododendrons, before reaching Chatreng, a former dependency of the principality of Lithang. The main site in this largely agricultural and staunchly Gelug area is fortress-like Sampheling Monastery.
Several times besieged, destroyed, and rebuilt in the last 100 years, it has recently been completely relocated and splendidly restored on the outskirts of town. We visit the monastery and meet with monks and pilgrims. We may also receive invitations for tea from the town folks - an opportunity to see the spacious insides of the tower-like farm houses in this part of Kham.
A one day drive takes us to Lithang, one of the highest towns in the world (4019 m). We visit 16th-century Lithang Monastery. Bombed in the 1950s, it has now been rebuilt overlooking the town. The most important social event is the annual Lithang Horse-racing Festival from 1 to 4 August. It draws equestrians, folk dancers and wrestlers from all parts of the Tibetan highlands. We ride through the vast grasslands of this region, the birthplace of two Dalai Lamas (nos. 7 and 10), and camp on the pastures where we get more than a glimpse of contemporary nomad culture.
 From Lithang we descend to Bathang, situated in a low-lying (2,740 m) fertile valley of the same name. Built at the confluence of the Ba-chu and Yangtze rivers, many modern Tibetan public figures hail from this prosperous area, a former principality.
Although most of the city today resembles any provincial Chinese town, there are important historic sites such as the ruins of the Bathang Castle of the local princes from the early 20th century, and the two main monasteries of Bathang Gon and Tsesum Serbum Gon. Bathang once was also a base for American Protestant and French catholic missionaries.
We leave the "land of the three brothers" by way of Gyalthang and then to Kunming.
|
